Buds vs. Daytons
What exactly are the benifits of a bud wheel vs. a dayton style wheel, or vica-versa. While the buds are much more pleasing to the eye, cosmetics are meaning less and less on a very tight farm budget. Is one more suitable for rough service (farm roads) than the other? The daytons look to be more prone to some form of failure, but I have no experience to support that assumption. Thanks to all.
daytons or spoke wheels are supposedly more suited for rough use,
steel disk are stronger than aluminum and cheaper to replace if bent
Spoke wheels are lighter, right?
Spoke wheels are easier to change, but also potentially more dangerous when changing, right?
cast spokes will wobble if the if the wedges are not torqued properly. I favor disk wheels they run true and are easily repaced if damaged.
Spokes are used in construction cars alot because when your in dirt and mud it doesn't build up in the wheels. With budd wheels you get mud build up on the inside dual is a ** to get out. We have never had problems with Dayton wheels failing you actually have more problems with stud pilot budd wheels.
If you ever had to change the inside dual on a lug centric budd wheel you would wish you had Dayton wheels. Your worn out by the time you get the 10 nuts off then get the 10 studs out then pull the wheel off. If you don't have a 1" drive impact wrench you are not getting those lug nuts and studs out.
Putting the wheels back on is another fun and games busting your back trying to get the wheel lined up. Get the inside tire back on and torqued properly go get the other wheel put the 10 nuts back on. If your not sweating your azz off you must not be doing something right.
Removing and installing Dayton wheels takes some tricks and somebody should show you how before you do the task. You can get the wheels square and wobble free if you know how todo it I think I would rather undo and tighten 6 nuts instead of 20.
I wouldn't be scared of Dayton wheels they have been used in the construction and logging industries here for years. You have two types of daytons 5 or 6 spoke the newer stuff is 6 spoke the 5 spoke is usually lighter cars.
Ohya did I meantion you still haven't got the tire that needs tobe fixed into the back of your P/U car yet. So you roll your budd wheel over to the car and your butt hole puckers up while you strain your back to get the heavy sob wheel into the box.
Dayton wheels are lighter to lift and easier to load into the back of a P/U car by laying the tire against the tailgate and slide it in.
GL has it right. Stay away from the Stud Piloted buds. If you are going with buds, stick to the Hub Piloted 10 bolt wheels.
-The HP-10 carries the weight on the hub, not the bolt,
-Has only 10 bolts/nuts per dual
-Are less susceptible to cracking and runnout/wobblies..
Believe it or not, I like the looks of spoke over budd but don't two-piece rims tend to explode sometimes?
What about a one pice tubeless dayton rim
Actually Dayton tubeless are good they are much easier to beat the old tire off and bar the new tire on. I don't like spit rim wheel either I will not pull them apart its too dangerous people have been decapitated from them
Supposedly, spoke wheels will be gone soon, industry expert say.
I actually prefer the appearance of spoke wheels over budd.
Can you describe for me, I know it's difficult without pictures, the construction of a spoke wheel. What is a lock ring?
Don't spoke wheels have a tendancy to explode at any time--this includes in motion with a car next to it. Or perfectly at a stand-still while parked.
Chad what you must be thinking of are the old tube type dayton rims they have a ring on one side of them that after you put your tire on you put this ring on and it locks in a grove on the outer edge of the wheel but if you don't get the ring in the grove and you air up the tire (with tube) it WILL come flying off (exploed)so to speak and it WILL cause injury or worse they make a steel cage to air up this type of wheel in on a dual wheel set up these rings are turned toward each other and this sorta captures them from flying off the car but when you got daytons on a steer axle the rings are turned toward the outside and i suppose that if not properly installed one could fly off the car and hit anything in its path but there would be a FLAT following real close behind it
All of the above posts are correct in the info they present. As an owner, your choice of dayton wheels or disc wheels should be based on this:
1. Strength - daytons are stonger, but only marginally.
2. Appearance - the disc wheels will hold dirt in off road applications.
3. Weight - discs wheel assemblies - wheel, hub, drum and tire - are lighter than the dayton wheel assemblies.
4. Disc wheels with outboard drums allow a brake reline without pulling the hub or breaking the wheel seal.
5. The concern about lock rings, etc. is moot if you go with tubeless tires.
The most popular choices are daytons for off road or construction work, disc wheels for over the road.
Once you choose a disc wheel, you need to decide on hub stud piloted or hub piloted.
The term "Budd" refers to the old stud piloted system. This system is like your car wheel - the lug nuts are ball shaped and the wheel has a socket shape. As you tighten the nuts, they center the wheel on the studs. You have 10 inner and 10 Outer nuts for each wheel.
The hub piloted system is available in a 8 lug and a 10 lug system. These systems have pads on the hubs that center the wheels and only on nut per stud for either 8 or 10 nuts total per wheel.
Too little knowledge is a dangerous thing. JLK
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